Some of the most spectacular hikes in the Sierra Nevada aren’t along the summits and peaks of the mountains, which are often quite rounded and barren, especially in the summer, but in the deep incised canyons and valleys that run right into the heart of this mountainous land. Of all the routes I’ve so far explored in the Sierra Nevada, none is more spectacular than the hike up the Vereda de Estrella, my favourite hike in the Sierra Nevada National Park. The route takes you right up the spectacular north faces of the Sierra Nevada’s three highest peaks, Mulhacen (the highest peak on the Iberian Peninsula), Pico de Veleta and my personal favourite Alcazaba, a spectacular fortress like pyramidal peak rising to the east of Mulhacen.
The drive in the trailhead is itself spectacular, following the verdant valley up away from Granada, past the small traditional town of Guejar Sierra, above a reservoir supplying water to the city. From this point on, the valley begins to be dominated by steep, spectacular karstic rock formations, plunging from the mountains high above. From Guejar Sierra the road descends back down into the valley itself following the river closely on a narrow track beside the rushing Rio Genil. The road runs through several narrow one-way tunnels before reaching the trailhead, a carpark and a lovely restaurant/café.
Crossing to the right side of the river, you begin to follow the Genil to the East, shadowing the torrent rushing below you. This is a fantastic area for wildlife! Look out for Spanish Ibex enjoying themselves on the near vertical cliffs on the far side of the river. Also, this is a good spot to look for Spanish reptiles in the summer, including Europe’s largest native lizard, the Oscillated Lizard and sometimes snakes as well. It’s a lovely spot indeed!
You cross several small streams rushing down from the high mountains to the south, but for the first part of the walk the really high mountains are hidden behind the restraining walls of the canyon. After about an hour’s walking, the valley begins to swing to the south and you’re presented with your first magnificent vista of Alcazaba, in my opinion the Sierra Nevada’s most majestic and formidable looking peak. It justifies its name, looking like a palatial medieval keep. Spring is a great time to do this walk, as it’s warm down in the valley, but the high mountains, Alcazaba included, are still cloaked in deep snow, adding to their beauty.
Four or five kilometres into the hike the trail splits with one trail dropping steeply towards the river, the other continuing to shadow the river valley from above. You’re heading for the bridge crossing at Refugio Vadillo. Crossing to the North Side of the Rio Genil, you now begin a tough climb up through forest to the Refugio Forestal La Cucaracha. You’re high above the valley now, but there are fabulous views of the North faces of Mulhacen, Alcazaba and Pico de Veleta, the three of the range’s highest peaks, seen at their most majestic. The solidly built refugio could make a great place to spend the night if you have some time to spare. This would turn a tough day hike into two more relaxed jaunts. From here you descend once more, following a steep narrow trail back down into the Rio Genil and the bridge at El Real. From this perspective Alcazaba is huge and dominating, a giant wedge of rock rising more than a thousand metres above you. In my opinion this is the highlight of the day and well worth the effort to reach this isolated location.
Returning to the trail head you can take a different, easier route via the South Bank of the Rio Genil, giving you a fresh perspective of the valley. The whole walks takes 8 or 9 hours, so make sure you take plenty of food and you’re well equipped for any rapid changes the weather may pull on you! If you’re looking for an awe-inspiring day hike out of Granada, one that allows you to truly get a feel for these spectacular mountains – well, this is one I would recommend!
